Before the action hit the runway, Burberry staged a sneak peak of it’s SS16 collection on Snapchat, and I can assure you I didn’t miss a single snap! With a 32 piece Orchestra performing live at the show setting a romantic tone, models came out in vintage-inspired evening wear, Peacoats studded with brass, satin silk shirts oh and lets not forget the nylon backpacks that were the star of the show.
Geometric, A-line sculptures and abstract lines in a more fluid silhouette is what Roksanda showcased at her SS16 show. Simpler slip dresses in shades of blush, baby blue, yellow, and black were the most convincing looks that opened the show—and right in line with the softer, romantic mood of the season. Ilincic showed how her take on voluminous aesthetic collection in a rather more interesting way.
With cuban and havana motifs running throughout Alice Temperley’s SS16 show, the key importance to the show’s real theme, which was embroidery. Heavily embroidered sundresses, embellished ensembles. Backed in crisp white or navy cotton, these pieces came in a variety of relaxed silhouettes and played host to a virtual fireworks display of floral and abstract embroidered patterns.
With Victoriana playing through Erdem’s pieces, his show has a great history behind it. Backstage he explained to Vogue Runway, “In 1862, Abraham Lincoln passed the Homestead Act, which gave single women and widows the right to their own plots of land in the West, as long as they stayed there for five years. So there were all these women coming from their homes in Europe, bringing their clothes and the remnants of their lives in Norway and Germany and places like that—and they started to suffer from agoraphobia and all kinds of psychological illnesses.” Amongst these lonely women, suicide was common – and the black velvet ribbon could perhaps be a symbol of this?
Warning! Ashish Gupta scattered sequins on his SS16 collection. Whilst doing research in the studio with his team the designer said “I thought they just looked beautiful.” So, he thought, why try and impose order when disorder looks so great? Thus this Ashish collection memorably preambled with a group of girls who skated the runway variously wearing DIY-touched tracksuits, a slip skirt, a frayed and washed denim T-shirt, and lairy-fairy dresses wreathed in tulle. It all looked so pretty.
Kane’s work is always about who he is, where he comes from, and what he’s experiencing at the time. “Our life has been a bit of a car-crash recently,” he remarked, in a preview at his studio with an interview with Vogue Runway. Him and his family have been dealing with the recent loss of their mother and of Christopher’s mentor in the past year or so. Thus the imagery of car-wrecks, fractured shapes, jagged cutouts, and spray-painting filtered into his dresses and tailoring are sure seen in his SS16 collection.